REV Dirt Bike Magazine Premier Issue - Spring 2003 - Features an article on AFRICAN OFFROAD TOURS

My knowledge of Africa consisted of two geography classes, a bunch of TV reruns of "Tarzan, Lord of the Jungle" and "Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom" with Marlin Perkinds. Sure, I also knew about north Africa - about Libyan leader Momar Qadafi - and that the Nile River actually flows south to north and empties into the Mediterranean Sea. But, to be honest, I did not know much about South Africa - just a little about a country that was riddled with political unrest and apartheid (or racial segregation). I thought it was as "third world" as much of the Dark Continent. Was I severly mistaken! When the concept of travelling to South Africa to do an off-road motorcycle ride came up, I panicked. "I'll get mauled by a lion," I thought. "The locals will beat me up and take my money, or worse," I contempated. Honestly, I knew nothing of its scenic seashores, nothing of its majestic mountain ranges or of the country's openess for dirt bikes. I knew nothing of the South African people, who kindly welcomed this ignorant "Yankee." Sure, I had heard of South African Grant Langston (former 125cc World Motocross Champion) and his KTM bike and Greg Albertyn, but I thought they were the exception. African Offroad Tours We arranged for a custom tour with African Offroad Tours so we could explore the countryside and still view the 34th Annual Roof of Africa Rally in the mountain kingdom of Lesotho (that little land-locked country surrounded by South Africa). Hosts Warren Murray and Craig Williams agreed to the short, customized tour. Not only did these two men (along with U.S. contact Danny Steyn) treat me with respect, they also were extremely professional and accomodating - like having two big brothers along for the trip. We started the tour as total strangers, but finished with a very solid friendship. Typical tours last for eight or ten days. My tour consisted of four days of riding and two days of cultural experiences. Murray and Williams said tying South African culture into the tour was a requirement. It's one thing to ride through a country, but to experience its cultural aspects and historical significance makes the trip that much more pleasureable. Tour prices cost roughly $3,000. That may seem like a lot for a trail ride, but it includes almost everything, and you have to remember it's not Iowa. AOT has plans to start all-terrain vehicle tours in 2002. For a list fo what's included, see the sidebar Howzit? below... What About Bikes? The bike you ride depends on your riding skills and experience. I rode the easy-to-handle Husaberg FE400c with electric start. Its unique ignition control lets the rider select - by using a handlbar mounted toggle switch - between two ignition curves for the terrain at hand. The FE400c is equipped with a forgiving WP suspension and responsive Brembo disc brakes - both of which improve handling. The six-speed transmission is smooth and the bike can provide a stron pull if it's pushed. Top-speed fun isn't out of the question, either, thanks to the rugged 399cc four-stroke powerplant. I appreciated the bike for its subtle sound levels and overall setup. I could have used a softer seat, however. Other bikes on the tour included a Husaberg FE501c, KTM 520 SX and Suzuki DR-Z400S. The tour price includes "all regular wear and tear" on the bikes, but does not include damage. Money for broken parts and maintenance will be deducted for the required $500 security deposit at the end of the trip. Normal wear repairs, cleaning and refueling is included in the trip price. Now That's A Trail Ride! My African experience was a mixture of both tours offered by AOT. The first day of riding encompasses the fractionally developed sections fo the Shongweni Valley. That's not a bad thing because it is done for a reason. This is an acclimating day through the rolling hills and steep cliffs around a city, and usually consists of a couple of hours of riding these landscapes - depending on you abilities. Riders can also use this day to get comfortable on the dirt bikes. AOT owns this resort area, making setup, lodging and accomodations easier. I describe day one as an out-of-the-ordinary, blood-sweat-and-tears adventure, whereas the guides call it a "weekend ride." They clarify that by telling me, "we like riding here, but it's more of a one day ride from home, not an adventure." They enjoy the unexplored terrain the rest of the trip will uncover, and know the tour will showcase South Africa's less-traveled and most beautiful off-road areas, adding a twist of culture and nature. Aside from evaluating customers' riding skills, the AOT guides also remind riders to stay on the left side of the roads when certain sections must be traversed. The guides have extensive knoledge of the area and help foreign riders prepare for atypical obstacles. While riding through an abandoned railway tunnel, visions of steam-driven locamotives danced through my head - that is until I had the handlebars nearly ripped out of my hand by something I ran over in the darkness. Was it a rock? A snake? A rat? Other obstacles included crossing highways, railroad tracks, off-camber downhills and "craters" (erosion holes). The terrain also includes picturesque views of waterfalls, dams, lakes and miles of single-track trails to explore. In my world, I'm fast and I ride like the wind gusts. In reality, my riding companions were so fast they made me feel like I was ridin the lone donkey in the group. Because of their racing backgrounds (Murray, Williams and Elmer and Phillip Symons have all raced the Roof of Africa) and experience, they also teach four-stroke riding techniques and offer advice for some of the terrain you'll face. For example, some of their tips include standing up in unfamiliar terrain and letting the suspension absorb any unsuspecting rut or rock. Using the bike's engine compression braking by feathering the clutch and tapping the brakes, while leaning back, you can tackle steep, off-camber downhills. EDITOR'S NOTE: AOT has a Dirt Bike Off-Road Academy, which is seperate from the tour itself, for riders interested in a full-on training course or a refresher. The school teaches riders how to read terrain, pick lines, tackle various obstacles, climb and descend hills, off-camber riding, breaking, jumps, mental and physical awareness and much more. Contact AOT for prices and availability. Day two of the tour, we headed to the Dolphin Coast or Umhlili Village. I checked in to a modern, luxury guest villa overlooking the Indian Ocean. My worrying of mosquito-infested huts and hungry lions on the prowl was replaced with Fantasy Island type thoughts - minus Tatoo and his "da plane, da plane," declaration. After a morning combing the beach, I met my new friends for the second day fo riding. The rumble on the paved streets took me back to my glory days riding my Huffy bmx'er with a Mountain Dew can crushed on my rear tire. dreamland ended abruptly when I tried riding through the squirrelly sand roads that interspersed the acres of cane fields. Under me, the Husaberg felt more like a skateboard than a high-powered dirt bike. Drenched in sweat, I hoped for a stop so I could suck down another bottle of water - my third in the hour. My wish came true as we came up to a not-so-small creek crossing with a ragin' current. As the first bike tried to cross, it sank up to its seat, but powered out of the hidden sinkhole and reached the other side. As the second rider approached the opposite shore, he too was engulfed by the same drop off. Instead of pwering out, the bike shifted and bucked him off into the creek. His day would have continued had it not been for a bent piston rod in his Husaberg 501e. We towed him to a local store and left him for dead - actually, a friend came to his rescue. Growing weary by the hour - thanks to a bout with jet lag - the ride was challenging, yet incredibly scenic and worth the early tribulation. Thankfully, the ride wasn't too lengthy, but it was still twice as long as the first day's ride. I climbed steep, grassy hillsides that would make Jack and Jill pee their pants. As we continued on, the sky darkened, making the huge hills my buddies climbed look more like a scene from an Alfred Hitchcock movie than reality. Only the best riders decided to tackle these difficult uphills, and the tricky jaunt back down the incline. And I thought the National Hillclimb championship I watched was gnarly - it doesn't compare. I now know what famous athletes feel like - maybe. The local African villagers love dirt bikes. Men, women and children lined the roads and ran to the trails to catch a glimpse of passing motorcycles. They cheered as we rode by, and threw their arms in the air requesting wheelies. We did have to be cautious riding through the villages at high speeds, obviously. AOT also respects the villagers' crops, historical sites, graveyards, livestock and dogs. Other than these areas and private land, much of the terrain we rode is open to cross-country travel, something to which a U.S. citizen isn't accustomed. Before beginning our third riding day, I earned the name "American Warrior." I was tricked into participating in one of the dances the night before. I earned respect from the villagers - or so they said while they laughed in my face. My dance was part of a tour of the Shakaland village to learn some traditional Zulu dances, sip homemade beer and watch a film on Shaka, the legendary Zulu king. After a Home Simpson-sized lunch, we headed out for Simunye - a pioneer camp located in the cliffs and river flats of the Mfule Valley. The ride is enjoyable, difficult and grand in the same breath. The twistig descent put me on single-seat roller coaster ride down a hillside that was littered with single kickers, sandy corners and creek crossings. Because I had a shortened tour, we skipped the overnight at Simunye, but I didn't pass up the opportunity for a tour and a fireside meeting with the chief of the Biyela clan. (On a full-length tour, you will ride to Simunye, eat and watch the evening festivities, and then stay over. After a wonderful brunch, your ride back to Shakaland in time for its cultural program and dinner.) The encroaching darkness overwhelmed us on our way back from Simunye. We were low on fuel. The approaching night sky kept our speeds slow and forced us to follow our only bike with a headlight. Luckily, we were guided by a bright moon, and white gravel roads which seemed to illumiate, contrasting with the black night. One wrong move could mean an ugly crash or dreadful trip down a 150 foot cliff, sweet! Jet lag is usually in full bloom at this point of th trip. Though this tired state affects some visitors more than others. AOT plans its trips with non-riding days because of it. On my fourth day, I went to the giant Hluhluwe-Umfolozi game reserve about three hours north of my villa. This park has it all, including hilltop restaurants, secluded hides and picnic sites. The picnic sites are thrilling because they aren't fenced, and this park is loaded with the "Big Five" (Elephants, Rhinos, Cape Buffalo, Leopard and Lion). Let's just say, you feel as though you're being stalked as you walk to the batchroom - and that's a good thing, because as Bill Cosby says, "first you say it, then you do it." After six hours of constant driving we left disappointed because we missed seeing a Cheetah family by minutes and failed to get a photo of the Elephants or Lions. We did see Rhinos, Cape Buffalo, Giraffe and Zebra. Those sightings made the experience worth it, regardless. My final day of riding took me from the streets of Ballito on the east coast to the rugged footpaths in the Umgeni Valley. This vast area (also known as Valley of a Thousand Hills) is divided by the Umgeni River and is where many Zulu nationals reside. The surreal scenery and arduous riding kept both my camera and me busy. You are allowed to ride on many of the gravel roads in the area, but you have to remain alert at all times. "Vigilante" bus drivers hug those tight mountain roads at a higher speed than most rally cars. Paying attention isn't my strong suit - just ask my wife. While playing out a Beavis and Butthead cartoon in my head, I was nearly pancaked by a gigantic bus. Braking with all my might and simultaneously diving to left, I avoided the bus and landed on my side in the ditch. At least my mom would be proud, I was wearing clean underwear. When we finally arrived back at host Craig William's house, we ralized we had just completed a seven-hour ride. Loosing track of time is bound to happen, especially riding in the Pride of Africa. Howzit? AFRICAN OFFROAD TOURS: AOT has operations in both the U.S. and South Africa. For the U.S. offices, contact Danny Steyn at info@africanoffroadtours.com, or Tel: 954.816.7272 (9am-5pm EST). For the South Africa offices, contact africanoffroad@hotmail.com, Warren Murray at +27 (0) 82 446 3333 or Craig Williams at +27 (0) 83 645 2941 (Durban, South Africa is seven hours ahead of EST in the U.S.) Where I stayed: The lodging agenda is organized by African Offroad Tours whether it's a customized tour or one of the two formatted tours offered. The tours take you to some of the coolest lodging destinations in the country, not the concrete jungle or hotel chains. Tucked in the KwaZulu-Natal's Tala Valley, the Tala Game Reserve (+27 781 1113); www,tala.co.za) is a privately owned 7,000-acre game sanctuary complete with hippos and rhinos and more than 280 species of birds. Located just 45 minutes from Durban, tala also has modern infulences like its La Tala restaurant and luxury accomodations. Located in Umhlali, South Africa, Sea Scape Guest Villa (+27 0322 525 8527; www.vircom.co.za/seascape) is a modern bed and breakfast perched high on the Dolphin Coast, along the Indian Ocean. The rooms all offer the same ammenities of home, and each ahvea spectacular view of the ocean. Owners John and Di serve up a stunning breakfast and family-like atmosphere. For those riders partaking in an official tour, accomodations at the Protea Hotel Shakaland (800/323-3210; www.proteahotels.com; www.shakaland.com) and Simuyne are added to display the cultural heritage or the Zulu experience. Other accomodations include overnights at Umngazi River Bungalows (+27 047 564 1115/6/8/9; www.umngazi.co.za); Sani Pass Hotel (+27 33 702-1320; www.sanipasshotel.co.za); Shongweni Resort (owned and operated by AOT); and the Oxbow Lodge (+27 5192 2247) in the Mountain Kingdom of Lesotho. Game Reserves Visited: Hluhluwe/Umfolozi Game Reserve (contact: KwaZulu-Natal Tourism Authority at +27 31 304 7144; or www.zululand.ksn.org.za). Created in 1895, Hluhluwe and Umfolozi are the oldest such animal reserves in Africa and were originally the Zulu Royal hunting grounds. Today, the consolidated parks spread across more than 237,000 acres of rolling, forested hills, grasslands and valleys, and are dissected by the Umfolozi River (which divides into both the Black and White Umfolozi). These parks were said to have established the 1960s "Operation Rhino" plan which saved the white rhino from its near-extinction numbers. The reserve also has the other species of the "Big Five" (cape buffalo, elephant, lion and leopard). What's included in the cost?: Transfer to and from the airport, lodging, accomodations, meals, taxes, non-alcoholic beverages, and the bikes (plus fuel, cleaning, prep and normal wear). Gear You'll Need* • Helmet • Two pairs of goggles • Two riding outfits • Two sets of gloves and underwear gloves • Enduro jacket w/detachabel sleeves • Three pairs of riding socks • Riding boots • Chest protector, kidney belt, elbow and knee pads • Gear bag • Water pack • Camera(s) & film • Sun block • Extra cash for gifts, shopping • Non-riding clothing (jeans, T-shirts, sweater, swim trunks, jacket, shades, shorts, socks, skiwies and running shoes) • Passport and other international travel items * Avoid overpacking by taking only the bare essentials for riding, dinner, and visiting the reserves and villages. South African Lingo Shongololo - harmless but long, leggy and devilish-looking "centipede." Cheers - Hello, thanks, talk to you soon, etc. Half past - Let's meet at half past (8:30) Rubbish - nonsens, garbage Bakkie - pickup truck Biltong - jerky-like meat stick Howzit? - How's it going? Izzit? - really?, no kidding? or you don't say? Stay - live, reside (I used to stay just over there) Oke - chap, guy, dude Pap - "pap" is boiled cornmeal, similar to grits Kit - riding gear Sweets - candy